2022 Domaine Tissot DD Arbois Rouge

Not long ago, the Jura was France's forgotten corner, a tiny region of strange, rustic wines that the rest of the world quietly ignored. One man changed that. Stéphane Tissot is the first name anyone says about the Jura, the biodynamic pioneer and natural-wine torchbearer who almost single-handedly turned a vinous backwater into one of the most exciting wine regions on earth. The wine world chases everything he makes.

DD is his most personal bottle. The initials are his father's nickname, André "DD" Tissot, and the wine is a loving throwback to the way Jura reds were made in his father's day: not from one grape, but from all three of the region's natives at once, Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir, in near-equal measure. Stéphane farms them biodynamically and ferments them with nothing added, then gives them a long, gentle maceration that leaves a surprising velvet texture on a wine this light.

The result is pure joy in a glass: bright cherry and raspberry, crunchy plum, wild herbs, and a cool, iron-like minerality, just 12% alcohol, even better with a slight chill. Pour it with charcuterie or seafood.

Tissot sells out fast, everywhere. A wine with this much soul never lingers.