2022 Domaine Cottenceau Montcuchot Montagny Premier Cru

Seventy cases. That is the entire global production of this wine—roughly 840 bottles for the world. Buxy is the historical capital of Montagny, the only appellation in Burgundy that permits no red grapes whatsoever. Montcuchot is one of its crown jewels, a steep, southeast-facing slope where thin clay barely covers limestone packed with ancient marine fossils.

Maxime Cottenceau farms forty-year-old vines here by the lunar calendar with minimal intervention. To extract deep flavor without bitterness, the fruit is pressed slowly over three hours before fermenting on native yeasts in Chassin barrels (half new). The wine spends fourteen months in wood and six months resting in stainless steel before bottling with minimal sulfur.

This is a serious, broad-shouldered white Burgundy rather than a light aperitif. Broad and creamy up front, it tightens into bright lemon acidity and carries through a long, stone-tinged finish. Ranked among the top expressions ever made from this site, it represents an elite Premier Cru at a fraction of northern Côte d'Or rates.